|chain depth gauges|
I loaned a machine similar to this one in the video right at the bottom and used that as a tutorial. All photos here are mine own. This is a titan 20" https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttl760chn-50cm-49cc-petrol-chainsaw/687fh petrol unit. I have an electric saw, but that is a self-sharpener, so not relevant here today. If you are in a hurry, just scroll down to the video at the bottom.
I also looked at the hand sharpening, and as in many of the videos I found a discrepancy, most people sharpen at 30° , even though when I checked, my manufacturer states 25° angle. If going by hand is your thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzjmpNTVH6U shows how to use a neat little hand sharpener. Once again people don't use the same angle, so check and decide once.
However I had this tool available to me to loan, so off I went. It takes a while to get the grinding disk end-stoppers set up for your specific chain, remember your chain will also stretch over time. You can also be using this exercise to inspect your chain. You don't want a chain flying off. inspect regularly for damaged links.
|clamped in a bench vise with a jig|
|this jig was not great, but worked fine|
|my sawing block|
I hand-filed the depth gauges by touching them each 3 strokes with a flat file, being careful to "guard" the teeth, which are pretty closeby with some thick heavy gloves, and NO you cannot adjust the raker/depth and then sharpen, the blades are not cut to work that way at all. Don't do it!.
I now have an appreciation for how blunt a blade gets when it is cutting wood that has dirt on it.